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Tecate 
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Joined: Wed Feb 11, 2009 1:30 am
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Location: Rosarito, Baja California, MX
Post Tecate
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Don't know if I will leave Mexico, go north then east to Campo to get on a train to visit Tecate, but I saw this little article about a period train ride to Tecate, and thought I'd post it here.

I have a few gay friends in Tecate... they all say that there is virtually no gay life on the surface there... but like anyplace else, the gay-boyz are everywhere! That's okay... if there isn't a "gay" reason to go to Tecate, I don't mind importing a few of the gay-boyz from Tecate who enjoy getting away... particularly in summer when it is hot as hades in Tecate and cool ocean breezes in Rosarito beacon.


The air is already laced with diesel fumes as the conductor shouts, "All aboard!" The engineer sounds the whistle, and the locomotive lurches forward.

Squeals of delight emanate from the passenger cars. This train ride is a first for many of the children. The adults share their excitement because they are setting off on a unique international adventure.

One or two Saturdays a month, nearly 250 passengers -- kids and grown-ups -- climb aboard the 1930s-era passenger cars in Campo in eastern San Diego County for the one-hour trip to Tecate, a town that provides a tranquil alternative to bustling and crime-ridden Tijuana, about 30 miles west.

Volunteers from the Pacific Southwest Railway Museum, which runs the trips, have restored the cars to their original appearance. Until they were retired in the mid-1980s, the cars trundled across northern New Jersey for more than five decades, carrying New York City commuters.

But now there's not a single suit-wearing, briefcase-carrying businessman in sight, and no one is forced to stand. (The original rattan was, thankfully, replaced with vinyl-covered foam about 30 years ago.)

The engine chugs along at 15 mph. Train aficionados, including Bob and Sandy Schussler, share the history of this stretch of track, which until the mid-1950s carried passengers traveling east from the coast.

"We are preserving the legacy of railroading in Southern California," says Bob Schussler, a former Marine who, with his wife, has spent more than a decade as an active volunteer with the museum. "I don't ever want to hear a little kid ask his father, 'Daddy, what's a train?' "

He tells visitors that the international railroad was built in the early 1900s to connect San Diego with the crop-rich Imperial Valley. Trains leaving San Diego traveled south into Tijuana before turning east. They remained on Mexican soil -- which was both flatter and cheaper than the land a few miles to the north in California -- until they were about 10 miles east of Tecate. Today's excursion trains travel on the same tracks that were laid nearly a century ago.

The point at which the tracks cross the international border, inside a 600-foot-long tunnel, is one of the highlights of this train trip.

"The Mexican border is about 20 feet from the far end," Bob Schussler says.


"The border is delineated by a white painted stripe," he continues, while shining the beam from his powerful spotlight along the rock wall.


"There!" exclaim dozens of passengers in unison.

Round-trip tickets cost $43 for adults and $23 for children. The trips often sell out weeks in advance, especially during the milder spring and fall months, when extra excursions are added to meet the increased demand. Through next May, American citizens will need only a driver's license or other government-issued photo ID to make the journey. As of June 1, all travelers will need to present passports or passport cards.

Within minutes of leaving the tunnel, the desert scrub begins to be replaced by homes on the dusty outskirts of Tecate. Children scamper out of the ramshackle dwellings and run alongside the tracks, exchanging waves with the passengers.

As the whistle announces the train's arrival at several busy crossings, motorists wave from their stopped vehicles. And, as the engineer applies the brakes outside the depot, even the policía -- rifles slung over their shoulders -- are waving hello.


The station is dwarfed by the huge brewery behind it, which bears the town's name: Tecate.

Andrés Contreras Camargo holds a large placard that reads, "Brewery guided tours," and as the passengers alight, he invites them to accompany him inside. Dozens oblige. Many already know that there's free post-tour cerveza in the adjoining beer garden.


Contreras, a university student who works part-time as a marketing intern, begins by explaining that the town was here well before the brewery. It was incorporated in 1892, but the brewery didn't open until 1944. Photos depict the early history of both.

During the 45-minute tour, guests see the huge copper kettles in which beer was first brewed. (They've been replaced by equally enormous stainless steel vats.) There's also a visit to the assembly line, where the still-warm and bubbly beer is pumped into 750 bottles a minute.

In the beer garden, visitors get a ticket good for one free beer. The guests can choose among the several brands made here, including Dos Equis, Sol and of course, Tecate.

If hunger is an issue, visitors, using a map distributed onboard by the train's crew, can make the five-minute walk to the town plaza, where the aromas of onions, peppers and garlic waft from more than a dozen restaurants on the streets around the square, known as Parque Manuel Hidalgo.

Locals flock to Los Amigos, a hole-in-the-wall that serves tasty and inexpensive carnitas.

Train passengers, on the other hand, tend to head for El Jardín. It's right on the square, and its outdoor tables are good for people watching, which proves better than the food. Women stroll past with their shopping bags as men wearing cowboy hats engage in animated conversations. A boy, probably in his early teens, weaves his way through the crowd, peddling a colorful variety of hard candies from his wheelbarrow.


Last edited by Kenito on Mon Mar 15, 2010 11:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.



Wed Sep 23, 2009 5:59 pm
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Location: Rosarito, Baja California, MX
Post Re: Tecate
Time to enjoy a glass of Tecate beer, some salsa and chips, and a sunny afternoon in Tecate's plaza.

Tecate: The real Mexico experience in the ‘Heart of Baja’

Tecate, often called ‘the Heart of Baja’, evokes the Mexico of a bygone era—friendly townsfolk, delicious pastries and coffee, colorful fabrics and flags hanging in windows, and the alluring smell of hot corn tortillas and grilling taco meats (Tecate is famous for its delicious tacos) lacing the air. It even has its own brewery! Tecate makes a perfect day-trip or weekend get-away for travelers who prefer a calmer, more authentic Mexico experience to the bars, nightlife and hawkers of more touristy destinations.

And no matter how often you go to this border town with its lively zocalo (town square) it just gets lovelier. It has retained its old-world charm while adding high-end restaurants, accommodations and increased restaurants, accommodations and increased recreation options. Most alluring is the fact that it is the northern gateway to Mexico’s premier wine region, the Valle de Guadalupe. Highway 3 from Tecate to Ensenada cuts through the heart of farmland and vineyards, providing access to more than 40 wineries, including LA Cetto; Dona Lupe; Domecq; Monte Xanic; Liceaga, and others.

But back to Tecate. Only 45 minutes from San Diego, with its own low-key border-crossing point, this quaint town was founded in 1892. At an elevation of 1700 feet, the area enjoys and estimated 340 days-a-year of sunshine and generally mild climate. Ringed by hills that often become snow-tipped in winter (to the delight of outdoor enthusiasts), it is a mecca for nature lovers and a gateway to many of Baja sights and wonders.

What are ten top things to do in Tecate? Here are a few:

1. Visit Tecate plaza

Make sure that you spend some time enjoying Tecate’s main plaza, the zocalo. Sundays are best, with strolling mariachis and frequent community events. Relax under an umbrella at a café table (ask for Lalo) and observe life as it passes by. Watch the comings and goings at the Bar Turistico Diana, the Balloon Man in his rainbow colors and the Doughnut Man selling hot churros.

2. Panaderia El Mejor Pan

Just a few hundred yards east of the main square is this famous bakery with its distinctive sign. The bread is their specialty (although rich and unusual pastries abound). Many say the bakery’s bolillos – crusty rolls for sandwiches or tortas -- are the best in Baja California. Other not-to-miss items? The elephant ears, bread pudding squares and pastries that look like watermelons.

3.Cuchumá Mountain

There is magic in Tecate, and many believe that it might radiate from the rocky mountain that looms benevolently over the town and its environs. Mount Cuchumá is a sacred place, revered for centuries by Indian tribes and by those answering Cuchumás spiritual calling. Today, groups still pilgrimage there; hikers claim that they feel mysterious pulls when they ascend Cuchuma’s trails; there have been reports of unusual lights emanating from the mountain (some say it is a favorite spot for UFOs), and there are claims of magnetic energy fields present at the peak.

4. Spas & Lodges

When you cross the border into Tecate, you enter a world of tranquility—and nowhere is there a better place to enjoy the peace and harmony of nature than at Tecate’s famous spas and lodges.

Rancho La Puerta, Ranch of the Door, was founded in 1940. Here, guests strive for wellness in mind, body and spirit. Meditation, a labyrinth, yoga, Tai Chi, dancing, hiking and reflexology are just a few of the elements that come into play at this remarkable 3,000-acre property just west of Tecate. In 2007, the cooking school La Cocina Que Canta, “The Kitchen that Sings”, was established as the centerpiece of Rancho La Puerta’s six-acre organic farm.

Rancho Los Chabacanos—Ranch of the Apricots is a rural treasure at kilometer 118 on the free road between Tecate and Mexicali, the Rancho has been profiled by National Geographic Traveler. Described as an ‘eco lodge hacienda’, the hotel is comprised of beautifully rustic casitas painted in rich umbers and decorated with traditional folk art and fabrics. The Casa Grande restaurant serves Mexican and international gourmet meals.

Rancho Ojai-- You almost expect Pa, Little Joe, Hoss and Adam to greet you at Ranch Ojai (http://www.rancho-ojai.com), located at kilometer 112 on the free road between Tecate and Mexicali. Instead, owner Hernán Ibañez Bracamontes proudly tells you about this interesting western-style camp that he has created in Tecate’s foothills. Built in 1996, Rancho Ojai offers accommodations for RVs and tents, as well as 31 log cabins. It stretches over a vast property area of 40 hectares.

5. Train to Tecate
Across the border from Tecate, on the U.S. side, are the charming areas of Dulzura and Campo snuggled in the foothills. From here, it is possible and fun to book a train trip to Tecate—even to bundle together a tour of the town, wineries and other attractions. Dinner train schedules are available, too. For more information, visit the San Diego Railroad Museum at http://www.sdram.org

6. Take me out to the Beisbol game (or soccer)
Maybe it wasn’t the first thing you thought of, but it might be the most fun: Take yourself out to the ball game to see Los Cerveceros (the Brewers) of Tecate play Mexican league baseball. The team plays at the Manuel Ceceña stadium, just east of the main township.

7. Shopping
Tecate is not super-touristy. Hence its charm. Hence finding great shopping places is all the more rewarding. Scout out the famous ‘paver’s yard’, where you can buy outdoor fireplaces, pottery, tiles and more at bargain prices, before they are shipped to pricey outlets up in the US. Two blocks from the tourist office on the main plaza, you’ll find Rositas Curios and Artesania Salazaar, where you can pick up crafts and arts of the region. Definitely don’t miss Los Azulejos, about two miles west of the plaza. This might just be the perfect place for keepsakes—everything ranging from spectacular hand-painted talavera dinnerware to fountains, to small rustic pieces that can be used individually.

8. Fine Dining in the Heart of Baja
Okay, how do Okay, how do you define ‘fine’? It can range from carne asada tacos – for which Tecate is justifiably famous – to a thick, juicy rib eye, to…mussels in mezcal? Eat lunch at a taco stand (or go find Lalo’s place on the main plaza).

Then go to Asao. What a discovery! Taking northern Baja by storm since 2007 is this high-end, elegant restaurant perched on top of a hill overlooking the town. Gleaming stemware, crisp white linens and the warm ambience of stone and wood create a welcoming environment—one perfect for avant-garde cuisine that reflects traditional regional cooking. Asao’s culinary roots are in the foods of the Kumiai tribe. Anyone for portobello mushroom soup with duck? Shrimp tacos wrapped in banana leaves? El Mezquite, at the Hotel La Estancia, is another great choice, particularly for a steak-lover’s breakfast or dinner.

9. Cerveceria Cuauhtémoc-Moctezuma (Tecate beer)

Perhaps no place is as emblematic of Tecate as Cerveceria Cuauhtémoc-Moctezuma, the internationally renowned brewery, home to Tecate (http://www.cervezatecate.com) beer. With 500 employees, the operations of this Femsa-owned company, under the directorship of Francisco Garza Hernandez, are vital to the town’s well-being. And, according to Raul Peña Hernandez, director of sales, the brewery takes a deep interest in partnering with the community on many projects, including recycling grey water for use in parks and recreation areas, and supporting events. Although much of the company’s sponsorship helps nonprofit causes, one of the most popular activities that benefits from the cerveceria’s patronage is baseball: East of the town center, it’s hard to miss the stadium where the Cerveceros (the Brewers) baseball team plays its home games.

Annually, 175 million gallons of beer and lagers are produced by the cerveceria, including Tecate, Tecate Light, Superior, Carta Blanca, Sol, Indio, Bohemia, Dos Equis, and a special beer created only for the Christmas season, Noche Buena, that features a poinsettia on its label.

The Cuauhtémoc Moctezuma brewery can be visited Monday through Friday from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., and Saturday from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Tours are available free of charge and are offered in both English and Spanish. Following the tour, guests are escorted to the beer garden for a free glass of Bohemia, Dos Equis or Carta Blanca. The garden, which is open from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily, features old brewery machines and a century-old beer truck. For more information, visit http://www.ccm.com.mx


Mon Mar 15, 2010 11:54 pm
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