NOTE: I picked this up on line and thought I would share with everyone here!)

Ay, Mazatlán, you stole my heart once more… It’s been three years since I last visited this city by the sea, and much has changed. High-rises have sprouted along the endless malecón and the Nuevo Mazatlán area is bustling with construction crews and cranes, as well as brand new hotels (stay tuned for more on what’s new in Mazatlán in a subsequent “newsy” blog). To top it all off, the convention center that was once a gleam in planner’s eyes is now a reality. It’s pretty awesome—I’ll be giving that some space of its own later this week, too.

What hasn’t changed is what makes Mazatlán so beloved to so many: that wonderfully exuberant joie de vivre that welcomes you and you and you and everyone else who sets foot in this charming city. The smiles, hugs, saludos, afternoons spent around tables laden with tostadas de marlin ahumado and ice-cold Pacífico beer or my own personal favorite dude, don Julio haven’t missed a beat. Nights in the old quarter, listening to plaintive guitars or rousing mariachi tunes, still kept me up way past my bedtime. Don’t get me wrong: everyone works hard to make a living around here, but what everyone doesn’t forget is how to make a life. Dancing, baseball (el beis), coffee klatches, outdoor concerts… Every week there’s something going on in Mazatán, and everybody is a part of it.

I miss it already.

Five Fun Things To Do In Mazatlán (In No Particular Order)

Catch a Venados de Mazatlán baseball game. This isn’t your typical USA game. Oh no. We’re talking action, excitement and lots going on—not just on the field, but in the stands as well. The gorgeous mazatlecas head out to see and be seen (no tennis shoes and cut-offs here: high heels, cool jeans, full makeup, earrings and bangles are de rigeur). Vendors offer beer, soda, the Mazatlán version of hotdogs (cut up on a plate with salsa, lime and toothpicks), Styrofoam cups brimming with elote (corn), and every light-up, noise-making toy you can imagine. You might find a live band oompah-loompahing away—or at the very least, a raucous combination of American stadium tunes and Mexican favorites to punctuate the plays. It’s Mexican Pro Baseball at its best. Check it out from October through January at the Teodoro Mariscal Stadium.

Spend an afternoon eating your way through the full spectrum of Mazatlán’s seafood at La Puntilla Restaurant in Punta Sur. It’s near the Isla de Piedras ferries and the views are fantastic. Service is excellent no matter how crowded the place gets—and it’s usually filled with a varied mix of visitors and plenty of locals, which is always an indication of good food and better ambiance. The aguachile (shrimp, lime, onions and green chile) is to die for.

Playa Las Brujas

Browse the Mercado shops at Playa Las Brujas and settle into one of the seaside restaurants for a cold Pacífico beer. The view is awesome (you can see a few mansions off into the distance on a more “private” shore) and the beach dogs are friendly. Not much to do here, but that’s the idea.

Indulge in the pleasure of an evening at Lorna Restaurant in the historic center (Constitución 1500). I was privileged enough to be there on a Thursday night when Gonzalo and his amazing guitar were headlining. If you have any idea what nueva trova music is and have any affiliation to it at all (think Puerto Rico, Cuba, protest, Silvio Rodríguez, Pablo Milanés, Roy Brown…) this guy will bring tears to your eyes. He also does a mean rock and roll. The atmosphere is eclectic (there’s a mannequin dressed up as a chic prostitute—I’m guessing Lorna—up on the second story) with a video screen, gold upholstered chairs and plush banquettes, plus a fantastic menu of—you guessed it—seafood. The palomas (tequila with grapefruit juice, soda and lime) are delightful. Come back during the day with your camera: the old city is just as charming in the sunlight.

Spend some pesos at the Pino Suárez market in Viejo Mazatlán. There’s not much between you and the cuts of meat here, so be prepared—it doesn’t get any fresher than this. It’s worlds away from your shrink-wrapped, ultra-sanitized, pasteurized and homogenized neighborhood supermarket, but it is a SUPER market. Here you can purchase anything from clothing to shoes to love potions to school supplies to go along with your shrimp, fish, beef, chicken, vegetables, fruits, spices and more. To get here, take the über-cheap city bus, or jump on a pulomonía (open air taxi).


¡Hasta pronto, Mazatlán!

by Mark

Back in 1883, Angela Peralta—a world-famous opera singer known as the Mexican nightingale—arrived to perform at the Rubio Theater, an elegant venue in the center of one of Mexico’s most important Pacific port cities. Fate, however, was against her on that historic visit. Yellow fever, which was then afflicting thousands around the world, struck the songstress, and she died in her hotel room before taking the stage.
Today, Peralta is Mazatlán’s patron tragic diva, and a symbol of the city’s strong cultural leanings. The Rubio Theater, meticulously restored and renamed the Teatro Angela Peralta (Angela Peralta Theater), has become the anchor of Viejo Mazatlán (Old Mazatlán), the historic city center that’s now as big a draw as the destination’s wide beaches. So while Peralta may never have graced the city with her talents, her name is now an icon of Mazatlán’s cultural rebirth.

If gay people are drawn to divas, then Mazatlán should be Mexico’s gayest resort destination. Indeed, the city of 600,000 seems to have just about everything a gay traveler could want: natural beauty, beautifully renovated architecture, cultural activities, beauty queens (who take to the stage during Mexico’s largest Carnaval celebration every year), and even visits from history-making celebrities of various sexual orientations (Herman Melville, the author of Moby Dick, visited in 1844 as a member of the U.S. Navy, and he included the city in his classic White Jacket).

Dubbed locally as the “Pearl of the Pacific,” Mazatlán is the kind of place that doesn’t change as rapidly as its counterparts elsewhere in Mexico. I’ve been visiting for nearly ten years, and there are still wide empty lots between high-rise hotels, and most of those hotels lack major chain affiliations. That’s part of what makes Mazatlán special. Unlike other resorts, it has a life beyond tourism (it’s one of the largest ports on the Pacific, and a major shrimp producer). It claims the longest waterfront malecón in Mexico, one that is bathed in Pacific breezes, as well as a small but growing gay scene, and, of course, it has the allure of a tragic diva that haunts its narrow streets.

Originally the home of Totorames Indians, Mazatlán (which means “place of the deer” in the indigenous Náhuatl language) became a Spanish settlement with the arrival of 25 settlers in 1521. Nearly three centuries passed, however, before a permanent colony was established in the early 1820’s.

Thanks to its bustling port and plentiful fishing, the city became an important commercial hub, and the largest city in the state of Sinaloa. Mazatlán was soon dotted with impressive neoclassical, tropical, and post-colonial architecture. A massive cathedral, built between 1875 and 1890, rose above the main square, and businesses and wealthy residents built their homes around the Plazuela Machado, a beautiful town square just a few blocks away. It was here that songstress Angela Peralta made her ill-fated visit.

Tourism got its first foothold in Mazatlán in the 1930’s, when visitors began taking advantage of the excellent fishing and hunting. It wasn’t until the 1970’s that foreigners really started arriving in droves, drawn to a new neighborhood north of the city, the Zona Dorada (Golden Zone), where dozens of hotels sprouted along a seven-mile stretch of beach. This is still where most visitors stay.

Like many city centers, Viejo Mazatlán (also called the Centro Histórico or Historic Zone) went through some rough times in the 20th Century, as residents fled to newer neighborhoods and visitors shunned what had become an ill-kept part of town.

Fortunately, most of that neglect was fixable. Within the past ten years, urban decay has been magnificently reversed, as an increasing number of locals and foreigners have invested in restoring the precious architecture. The 180-block downtown now has 479 buildings designated as national historic landmarks. Businesses have returned to the city center, with galleries, restaurants, and small hotels offering a pleasant way to enjoy Mazatlán’s historic magic.

Viejo Mazatlán’s lovely Plazuela Machado is the white-hot center of the city’s preservation efforts. Walking just a block or two in any direction, visitors will discover restaurants, cafés, small shops, cultural attractions, and new, small hotels housed in 19th-Century masterpiece buildings.

The Angela Peralta Theater, just steps away, offers live stage performances of music, dance, and theater, allowing visitors to give their beach vacation a distinctly cultural bent. The Machado Museo Casa (Machado House Museum), in an 1846 home overlooking the square, offers a glimpse at life during the city’s early days.

After a tour of the neighborhood, it’s easy to duck into one of the many cafés and restaurants that now populate the historic zone. Among the best is Bahía, an old-school restaurant that specializes in seafood; Ambrosia, a gay-popular vegetarian restaurant; and Pedro y Lola, an upscale Mexican restaurant with live music on weekends.

Just a few blocks from the architectural treasures of Viejo Mazatlán is the stunning Pacific waterfront. Along one of the steepest points, cliff divers stage daily shows of derring-do, as they plunge into the rough waters below.

The Zona Dorada’s wide beaches, high-rise hotels, and large gringo presence is a stark contrast to Viejo Mazatlán’s quieter ambiance. Here, vacationers soak in the sun, enjoy a wide variety of water sports, and head off to any of the three offshore islands that provide quieter beach activities and exploring. Meanwhile, golfers will find a convenient place to tee off at the El Cid resort complex.

It’s also easy to arrange for day trips to interesting towns outside the city. Tours to Escuinapa and Teacapán, for example, take in unspoiled estuaries, bird sanctuaries, and other natural wonders. El Quelite, a village some 20 miles north of Mazatlán, is a good place to witness the authentic ranch lifestyle, pick up some inexpensive handicrafts, and sample local cuisine.

Speaking of cuisine, seafood lovers are especially well treated in Mazatlán, thanks to the city’s large fishing fleets. Shrimp is practically the official dish, with restaurants like El Shrimp Bucket and Los Arcos offering countless variations on this tasty crustacean.

When it comes to accommodations—there are fewer chain hotels here than at other resort destinations—Mazatlán offers a wide range of mid-priced and a few upscale choices. Among the handful of luxury hotels are the Pueblo Bonito Mazatlán, PuebloBonito Emerald Bay, and the Marina El Cid (which is a good choice for vacationers looking to do some deep-sea fishing). These properties are among the best for avoiding the more crowded part of the Zona Dorada district, but they’re also a bit further from the wonderful city center.

Slightly closer is the Emporio Mazatlán (formerly the Riviera), which is a good choice for fans of 20th-Century mod architecture. It is also within walking distance to Pepe Toro, the city’s gay disco. Even less expensive (and also within walking distance) is the gay-friendly Azteca Inn.
Thanks to the recent development and preservation boom in Viejo Mazatlán, there are now more options for taking a room in the heart of the historic center. Hotel Machado, which opened this year, is a six-room inn that looks out on Plazuela Machado square. Each room has high ceilings, brand-new bathrooms, microwave, refrigerator, coffeemaker, air conditioning, and ceiling fan.

A little over two years ago, the Hotel Machado’s owners opened The Melville, another pleasant small property just a couple blocks away (named, appropriately enough, after author Herman Melville).

Gay visitors don’t usually come to Mazatlán expecting endless nightlife, but the city’s manageable scene offers plenty of after-dark fun, particularly on weekends. There are, in fact, only two real gay bars (and no specifically gay beach area). Vitrolas, a handsome gay bar in Viejo Mazatlán, is open every day except Monday, and Pepe Toro, the recently expanded gay disco in the Zona Dorada, packs in the crowds on weekends, with a good mix of Spanish- and English-language music and a nice outdoor seating area.

Victor Hernandez, the owner of both of Mazatlán’s gay bars, moved here from San Luís Potosí in 1979, and has pretty much single-handedly built Mazatlán’s most enduring gay nightlife scene.

Life has gotten better for gay people in Mazatlán since Hernandez first arrived, he says, but there is still room for progress. The community today is “more organized,” he tells me. “People are more open, although not in every segment of society, and we don’t yet have an organization that represents us legally, which is something that we really need.”

Gay travelers can expect good treatment here, he adds. “Since this city’s job is to serve the tourism market, and since attitudes have been changing nearly everywhere, gay tourists are treated well.”

“Gay life has evolved a lot in the last six years,” agrees Ivan Sidney Hidalgo, a long-time local friend of mine who works as a retail manager. “The city and society are more open, although like everywhere there is racism and homophobia. We do need an established organization. Over the years there have been gay groups formed, but because of lack of dedication and support they didn’t become permanent.”

There is now a local gay radio talk show, called Metamorfosis, that airs every Thursday from 9 to 10 P.M. “It’s a great help to the community,” Hidalgo says. “I think that because of them we will soon have an official gay participation in the Carnaval parades.”

Which leads us to another of Mazatlán’s biggest selling points: Carnaval. This pre-Lenten annual celebration is billed as the largest carnival celebration in all of Mexico, and while it may not rival Rio de Janeiro’s, it’s a lively, fun experience (see sidebar for more information).

As we walk through the narrow streets of Viejo Mazatlán, Hidalgo points out some of his favorite places to go on dates. Clearly, there are plenty of opportunities for romance in Mazatlán, even if it doesn’t have the biggest gay scene. “Mazatlán is a beautiful and romantic port city,” he says. “There are countless places to visit and things to do. We have a beautiful historic center full of small restaurants and bars that gay couples can visit without being bothered. And it’s all just steps away from the ocean, where couples can enjoy Mazatlán’s beautiful sunsets.”

So while it may not be the best idea to walk hand-in-hand through the city with your significant other, Mazatlán has plenty of places to steal a kiss. Hidalgo, who has also lived amid a larger gay community in Acapulco, says: “Fortunately, a lot of people in Mazatlán are open-minded, and they let gay couples as well as bugas (straight people) enjoy themselves.”
Hidalgo and I finish our stroll through Viejo Mazatlán by sitting on the stoop of the Teatro Angela Peralta. A mild evening breeze is blowing and the temperature is ideal. A rather flamboyant teenager saunters past us and gives his male friends a series of kisses. Mazatlán may not be the biggest gay destination in Mexico, but it has its charms. Somewhere, a tragic diva may be smiling down on us.

The first time that I went to Carnaval, I was six years old, and I loved seeing the parade, with the beauty queens riding on the floats,” recalls Mazatlán native Ivan Sidney Hidalgo. “I didn’t know exactly what it meant, but I knew that it was a big party and I enjoyed it then as much as I enjoy it now. Carnaval is the most-awaited party of the year.” Indeed, Mazatlán’s Carnaval, the pre-Lenten celebration that dates to the mid-19th Century, claims to be the largest carnival event in Mexico, and offers everything from noisy revelry to calmly classic entertainment. In addition to the crowning of the Carnaval queen, two parades, and on-going street festivals, the nearly weeklong event features performances by members of the Delfos contemporary dance company, live performances by regional bands and internationally known Latin American singers, plus special events at museums and theaters. With all those beauty queens running around, how easy is it to spot their gay followers? “There is a lot of gay participation in Carnaval, but not in an official way,” says Victor Hernandez, owner of the gay bars Vitrolas and Pepe Toro (which stages its own drag queen Carnaval celebration). “Most of the people who organize [Carnaval] are gay, but there isn’t an open recognition of this yet, nor is there a group or organization that represents our community. I hope that in the years to come we’ll achieve this; it’s been one of my dreams and I think it will soon be achieved.” Dates for Carnaval vary from year to year, but booking early is always advised, as hotels fill up fast. Dates for the main events are usually in February. For more information, visit http://www.carnavalmazatlan.net or http://www.gomazatlan.com.

WHAT A WAY TO GO
Mazatlán has plenty of taxis, and a safe, inexpensive public bus system, but the absolute best way to get around is aboard a pulmonía—something like an overgrown golf cart that operates like a taxi throughout the city. First introduced in the 1960’s, these bizarre open-air contraptions got their name, supposedly, from jealous taxi drivers who warned that passengers would catch pneumonia—pulmon—from the Pacific winds that lap at each vehicle. Another off-beat transportation option are the mini red pick-up trucks that carry up to eight passengers in their semi-enclosed cargo areas—in keeping with the naming game, they have been dubbed bronquitis, or bronchitis. With no known cases of illness reported from either type of transport, of course, these vehicles (especially the pulmonías) have become the city’s most beloved ways of getting around, and the most fun, too. Prices start at around two dollars, and there are no meters, so ask what it will cost before getting into the vehicle.

Mazatlán (August 2, 2010) – Visitors to the coastal city of Mazatlán savor award-winning cuisine amid a scenic backdrop. The destination known as the “The Pearl of The Pacific” has long been renowned for its fresh seafood straight from the Pacific Ocean. Now, Mazatlán’s rich culinary tradition spotlights authentic flavors with gourmet flare, served up by acclaimed chefs and world-class restaurants. Travelers can also explore the region’s diverse culinary landscape with visits to colonial town haciendas and tours of Mazatlán’s brewery and a century-old blue agave distillery.

Culinary Tours Whet Travelers’ Appetites

For hands-on gastronomic adventure, a variety of new tours please the palate while serving up unique glimpses of Mazatlán’s history. One of the most popular is the Vintana de los Osuna, where visitors explore the 130-year-old Los Osuna Blue Agave distillery and plantation. Located in the mountain village of La Noria, the expansive estate was settled by the Osuna family soon after their arrival from Spain in 1864. Daily walking tours take guests through the agave fields, where plantation guides explain the growing process and demonstrate how the blue agave is harvested. Visitors then tour both the ancient and modern distillery, sample agave juice, visit the estate’s wine cellar and enjoy final tastings of blue agave at the Los Osuna Bar.

Mazatlán is also home to the Pacifico Brewery, where visitors are led through the bottling plant, distribution operations and quality control labs of the fully operating beer brewery. The Pacifico museum and tasting room is located at the top of the brewery’s tower. Here, guests learn about the brewery’s origins in the city’s early European influence and enjoy multiple tastings, surrounded by breathaking 360-degree views of Mazatlán’s scenic coastline and vibrant historical center.

Bounty of the Pacific

Set along 16 miles of golden-sand beaches, it’s no wonder Mazatlan enjoys an international seafood reputation. The coastal waters here teem with Pacific sailfish, marlin, yellowfin tuna, wahoo, and dorado. The city also boasts the largest shrimp fishing fleet in the Pacific, and fishermen are found every morning selling their catches of the along the oceanfront malecón promenade. Visitors can savor fresh seafood like plump shrimp and ceviches with conch, octopus or crab meat in outdoor markets or beachside palapa huts.

In Old Mazatlán, the city’s lively historic district, charming sidewalk cafés offer al fresco dining and haute gourmet flavors against a colorful backdrop of neoclassical architecture. A favorite among locals and visitors, Restaurant Pedro Y Lola serves a mix of fresh seafood and international specialties as guests enjoy free outdoor jazz concerts from nearby Plaza Machado in the heart of town.

The luxurious, beachfront district known as Zona Dorada (The Golden Zone) offers world-class cuisine and ocean views at premier restaurants like La Cordeliere and Angélos. Award-winning chefs here create signature dishes that range from chargrilled octopus to hearty marlin stews, lobster in garlic sauce or grilled red snapper. Located just north in the area known as Nuevo Mazatlán, The Seafarer restaurant features an international menu and waterfront dining along the cosmopolitan Marina Mazatlán. Nightly music performances feature smooth jazz and soulful blues ensembles. For a more casual atmosphere, travelers head to Gus y Gus, also overlooking the new Marina. The open-air restaurant offers authentic Mexican fare and a lively bar with nightly entertainment.

Taste of Regional Tradition

Located near the foothills of the Sierra Madres, Mazatlán also boasts rich regional cuisine. The fertile valleys here offer plenty of lush pasture for livestock to roam, producing tender cuts of pork, lamb and beef. Local dishes also spotlight native spices and fresh ingredients harvested from neighboring farms. Among the region’s specialties: tender Mazatlán steak marinated in a spicy red chile broth.

In Old Mazatlán, La Tramoya is a favorite for hearty and authentic Mexican meat dishes. Olas Altas Steak House spotlights a fine dining menu of steaks, seafood, tapas and Asian-fusion cuisine created by Mazatlán Best Chef Award-winner Ken Simon. Diners enjoy a romantic ambiance in the restaurant, housed in a lovingly restored private home that is more than a century old. In Nuevo Mazatlán, the elegant Sr. Pepper is known for its refined atmosphere, succulent steaks and sophisticated wine list.

Just outside the city, picturesque colonail villages and mining towns offer a taste of the area’s rich heritage amid panoramic mountain views. In quaint restaurants like El Meson De Los Laureanos in El Quelite, dishes are prepared in the honored custom of generations past. Travelers can savor handmade pork tamales, enchiladas sprinkled with grated queso cotija and pozole, a flavorful pork and hominy stew.

For more information about Mazatlán’s culinary highlights, visit http://www.gomazatlan.com.